Posted by
Stephen H. on Thursday, February 17, 2011 4:06:51 AM
Last week we had the opportunity to visit Xiamen (pronounced "shya-mon"), a port city on the southeastern coast of China. Xiamen is a city with an interesting history and was a major point of debarkation for Chinese emigrating to other countries. In the 19th and early 20th centuries, it also was home to a fairly large number of Westerners. Given this Western influence, it is perhaps not surprising that Xiamen is well-known for its devotion to Western classical music and that it has been a center for Christianity in China.
In more recent times, Xiamen has been in the forefront of China's "Reform and Opening Up" policy. It is one of the original "special economic zones" set up some thirty years ago by the Chinese government as a test-bed for the market-oriented economic reforms that have become prevalent throughout the country. Thus, it is not surprising that Xiamen is booming.
During most of our time in Xiamen, we stayed on Gulangyu, a small island located off the main island of Xiamen, which is only accessible by ferry. Gulangyu was once the main residential area for Westerners living in Xiamen and the site of a number of foreign consulates. Thus, the island is filled with buildings that would almost look more at home in a small European town than in China. The streets are relatively narrow and often traverse up and down hills. Perhaps most notable, for China, is the fact that no motorized vehicles are allowed on Gulangyu, which means walking is the primary form of transportation. Reflecting its reputation as the classical music capital of China, it has both a piano museum and an organ museum, as well as a concert hall where free concerts are presented almost nightly. Gulangyu's Christian heritage is also reflected in the prominence of churches and Christian cemeteries. In many ways, Gulangyu seems like a throw-back to a quieter past, but there is still evidence of China's more recent turmoils on the island. As we were touring the island, our host, who was born on the island, pointed out that a number of the tombstones in the Christian cemeteries had been vandalized, probably during the so-called Cultural Revolution in the late 1960s and early 1970s, when bands of "Red Guards" (usually college, or sometimes high school, students) roamed the country destroying anything reminiscent of the so-called old society or of Western "imperialism".
Staying on Gulangyu was quite an experience, as it was, in the evenings at least, probably the quietest place in China I have ever been. However, not all is idyllic. The island is clearly being developed as a tourist destination and change, not always so welcomed, has come to Gulangyu. According to our host, a number of years ago it was decided to relocate the original inhabitants of the island elsewhere and to import workers from Anhui Province (a poor inland province) to work on construction and renovation projects. There was some uproar about this plan and it was eventually abandoned, but many of the workers from Anhui remained, and as a result, the island seems to have lost some of its original flavor. In the past, Gulangyu was called "Piano Island" as the sound of people practicing the piano used to be quite common, but this sound is no longer frequently heard, as many of the original inhabitants have left. A few years ago, the authorities planned to charge everyone coming to the island a fee of 80 Chinese yuan (more than US$10) for every trip. Needless to say, the locals were outraged as it would have meant paying a large amount annually to travel to and from their own homes, and eventually the plan was scrapped. However, this sort of thing is not that unusual in China, where it seems that often those in authority come up with big plans without considering carefully the impact on the laobaixing (the "Old Hundred Surnames"--ordinary people).
Perhaps my biggest disappointment during this trip was that I was unable to visit Jinmen. Jinmen is one of several islands near Xiamen that are still controlled by the Chinese Nationalists (also known as the Kuomintang or KMT) who rule Taiwan. In fact, Jinmen was the site of one of the few battles during the Chinese Civil War of the late 1940s in which the Chinese Nationalists actually defeated the Communists. For many years it was considered one of the "frontlines" in the conflict between the Communists and Nationalists and tensions were high. However, in more recent years, as tensions between the Chinese mainland and Taiwan have eased, Jinmen has actually been opened up to tourism by the authorities in Taipei. I think it would have been interesting to see this place that used to be such a "hot spot" in the conflict between the Chinese mainland and Taiwan, but unfortunately, neither time or the weather were on my side. Perhaps next time (if there is a next time)...